Rock climbing is becoming more popular every day and today almost every city has a climbing wall. Of course, climbing gyms can be of different scales, but the main thing is to start systematically training and watch your progress.
It’s good if you have an incentive – a goal that you will go to and train systematically. It can be both results on a different format of competitions (from amateur festivals to official starts in the country), or a climb of a new category on a climbing wall or on rocks.
For each goal, a different climbing training program can be built and one or another skill will be developed.
In total, several directions can be distinguished:
Strength – a combination of maximum strength and speed – the ability to make heavy movements quickly and powerfully (long intercepts, jumps, etc.); the ability to perform high-intensity work.
Stamina – the ability to do low-intensity work for a long time. Endurance depends on how long you can stay on the wall.
Strength endurance – the body’s ability to resist fatigue during prolonged strength work; for a climber – the ability to make many heavy intercepts in a row (without rest between intercepts).
Technique – precise work of arms and legs, smooth movements, precise body positions, a certain rhythm of movements.
Work on the project – work on a difficult route for a long time: the ability to read the route, find the optimal alignment, perform movements after many attempts and errors; morale on difficult routes.
Climbing “on the capacity” – means to climb a lot for a certain (not very large) period of time; useful for developing strength, endurance, the ability to “read” the route.
For each direction, you need to choose the right “conditions” of training, in particular for climbers – these are the appropriate routes or holds for vises, etc. In the 12Climb application, you can specify the characteristics of the route and then any climber will be guided that he wants to climb to improve his chosen skill (strength, technique, training, dynamics, etc.).
And then it’s important to understand the capacity and cyclical nature of the repetition of the exercise. Already today at any climbing gym you can easily keep a diary of your climbing workouts. Even if the gym doesn’t add its routes to the 12Climb application yet (let us know and we will contact them), you have the opportunity to use the default routes.
The default routes are a tool for entering routes by category. For example, you climbed 5 different routes of category 6A and 3 routes of 6B in training. You just need to select the desired category in the list and specify the number of climbs (this can be a flash or a redpoint).
Thus you will see the capacity of each of your workouts, as well as the best category on your train. There is also the opportunity to see the capacity of work done in training for a week and a month. And of course, you can share your achievements with friends on social networks.
At climbing gyms that mark the routes, it’s even easier to enter your training results. And in the future, our climbing training programs will recommend you what routes to work on and in what sequence to climb.
Classical volume training. Climb for points.
The optimal training schedule when using this program is 3 times a week with 1 day of rest between workouts for 4 weeks.
During these 4 weeks, strive to increase the intensity from training to training. Spend the 5th week in unloading, simplified mode and after that try your project. The program can be used for both sport climbing and bouldering.
The essence: for the passage of each route points are awarded in the application 12Climb. The task of each training session is to gain a certain number of points.
Before training, set a goal expressed in the desired total score (more = better) and climb until you reach it, resting as much as you need.
For each workout, try to score more points than for the previous one – this is an increase in intensity. An important condition: the increase in intensity should be due to an increase in the complexity of the training routes, and not an increase in the number of routes covered during the training.
The result of training under this program can be called good if, at the end of the cycle, you were able to increase the category of training routes (provided that “training” you call those routes that climb without interruption). The training goal must be realistic and achievable.
It’s right when the desired amount of points corresponds to your capabilities, i.e. the higher / lower the level of climbing, the “more expensive / cheaper” goal.